Tips for retailers

Selling shells as soft as fleeces

The term softshell is going to be heard more and more often on the shop floor — and no, it has nothing to do with breakfast. The fairly new generation of garments fitting this apt description is gaining in popularity — and are destined to become even more of a stock feature, say the local suppliers.

“We have seen an incredible growth in sales of softshells,” reports Ian Little of local manufacturer Capestorm. “Four years ago we only had one softshell in our range, now we have half a dozen men’s and four women specific softshells.”

This growth in demand goes hand in hand with more public awareness of the technological benefits of these types of garments. According to Rebecca Laird of Texas Peak, who distribute Helly Hansen, more and more consumers are looking for features offered by these technical fabrics, instead of just a good looking, nicely coloured jacket.

This demand has, in turn, been driven by manufacturers using improved fabrics, styling and technologies, adds Barbara Cole, New Balance apparel key accounts manager.

Another factor is the increased participation in trail running and multi-sport events, says Jacqueline Brooks of Salomon, as these garments are ideally suited to these activities. “As the number of people doing trail running increase, the demand for softshell garments grow.”

Although the demand has, without a doubt, increased over the past two to three years due to heightened awareness, there is still a huge untapped market out there that will only be reached as know-ledge and information spreads, says Morne Strydom of local manufacturer First Ascent.

“But, consumers have become so used to wearing a fleece that it will take some time to get them used to these garments made in a fabric that is strange to the touch,” he says.

“As perceptual values are broken down through more exposure, consumers will become more accepting of the new look of outdoor jackets. There is no doubt that this is the trend of the future. From now on the momentum will pick up.”

The fact that some of the mainstream outdoor groups have given softshell garments in-store exposure has helped to introduce the benefits to more consumers, says Strydom.

But, telling a customer about a new kind of garment that not even the experts can define, takes some doing! In 2003 some of the major industry players tried to formulate a definition of a softshell during a workshop held at OutDoor Friedrichshafen — and failed to reach consensus. “That is part of the challenge facing the industry — when is a softshell a softshell?” says Little. “There are so many permutations and so many interpretations that no common definition actually exists.”

So, exactly how do you introduce a customer to a softshell garment?

What is a softshell?

To start off, the name is pretty much descriptive: the garments are soft and provide an effective protective shell against wind, rain, cold and other unpleasant elements. They also breathe and allow perspiration and moisture to escape. The shell traps body heat to create a warm, comfortable insulated cocoon.

That’s the easy part. From there, the definition becomes murkier: the garments can be made of a tightly-woven, soft, thin and lightweight fabric, or they can be heavier and knitted, they can be 2-ply, or 3-ply, or even mono ply. Says Little: “Softshells are jack-of-all trades, but masters of none — they are not as waterproof as hard shells and not as insulating as a top quality fleece or insulating jacket. A good softshell is the quintessential all-in-one garment: warm, compact, water-resilient, durable, breathable and form-fitting.”

In general, most softshells are not 100% waterproof, but they will keep you dry in normal rain and will dry fast enough to prevent you from catching a cold if you cycle, climb, play golf, hike or run in wet or windy weather. (There are, however, some top end models that will offer as much protection against wind and rain as you can get.)

While it acts like a hard shell by keeping you dry in everything but a heavy rain storm, you don’t feel like peeling off your softshell the minute you enter a building. Its comfortable to wear and many consumers wear it just like they would have worn a fleece.

And while you’ll look pretty daft and perspire like a sauna when running a trail race or competing in a cycle race in an old-style rain jacket, a softshell will blend in well with the rest of your gear. It therefore has wide appeal for athletes who don’t enjoy their sport in the rain (yes, it does sometimes rain on a golf course!)

Giving your customer a choice

Who wears them where and for what purpose will further determine how the softshell looks and performs. Not all softshells are equally wind- and waterproof. Like with any other garment, the level of protection will depend on the use. There are three main types:

» Softshells aimed at general purpose use (e.g. going to the mall in winter) and aerobic type sporting activities, where you don’t need too much insulation because the body generates enough of its own heat from running, cycling or golfing. They do, however, provide protection against the wind and will keep you dry in a drizzle.
» The next level are the softshells with the widest appeal: they are body warmers that offer a fair level of protection, especially when worn with a thin fleece layer. These micro fiber polyester or ripstop softshells dry very fast, but are not as waterproof as the next level.
» At the top of the range are the insulating softshells that will be worn in very wet, cold and windy conditions — like being on a yacht when a Black South Easter strikes or on a skiing holiday in Switzerland.

A cost-effective buy

A softshell is not cheap, but your customer will get a lot of wear for their money. Compared to the highly technical waterproof breathable hard shells that can cost anything up to R2 500 and are only worn in extreme weather, a softshell retailing for R500-1 000 is a practical buy.

And because they need to wear fewer layers of clothing with a softshell, your customer can buy one garment, instead of several layers of fleeces, jerseys and rain jackets.

Softshells have revolutionised the way designers think about outdoor clothing, says Strydom. “The whole approach to the design of waterproof shells for active people has changed due to the introduction of softshells. Now designers are looking at ways to make them more functional, super light and breathable.”

This is especially true for the very active outdoor enthusiasts enjoying activities like trail running or cycling. But, on a mountain top where garments are bound to suffer abrasions and other abuse, robustness would count more than light weight, says Little.

How many people out there are aware that these garments actually offer heavyweight protection?

Spreading the word

According to Laird, the level of awareness differs from sporting code to sporting code. “Participants in some sporting codes are much more advanced than others with regards to understanding the benefits of the technology, and understanding the value of paying a little more for such benefits.”

Up to now, awareness has mainly been in the outdoor market, where it has been driven by local outdoor clothing manufacturers and retailers, explains Strydom.

The typical Capestorm customer, for example, tends to be discerning and more often than not likes to know about the qualities of our products, says Little. “This is especially so with a highly technical garment like a softshell.”

The general public, though, cannot yet discern between a softshell and ordinary fleece top, believes Brook. “There is still a lot of education to be done.”

Most customers still buy garments on the look, feel and price without going into too much detail on the benefits, agrees Brendon Geary, Apparel Product Line Manager for Puma SA.

And let’s face it, feeling a softshell in a store is not exactly going to convince a customer that this flimsy-feeling garment is going to keep as much wind and rain out as a fur-lined parka. But, once you see someone wearing such a garment in a howling South Easter, you are going to think twice about buying it — and the third time you’ll probably make the purchase!

Once a consumer experienced the benefits first hand, he’ll be converted, says Strydom. He’ll tell his friend, and so the word will spread.

How to convince customers?

The ideal place to address this is in the store. “There can definitely be an improvement in conveying the benefits at store level through the sales staff, and through training from the brands on fabrics, technology and features,” says Cole.

“Educate people on how to dress for winter for performance activities, get people to understand the benefits of windproof and rain-repellent garments… most of this can be conveyed at store level, or through product-specific advertising.

The proof of the pudding is always in the eating, advises Little. “We therefore encourage our staff to use our products in their chosen playground. There is no better endorsement than seeing a garment performing in the environment it is designed for. We are also proactive with our customers in store and ensure that we don’t just stand behind the counter waiting for the sale, but interact with customers explaining the ins and outs of the garments.”

Another way of promoting the use of softshells is through high profile athletes and celebrities wearing them, suggests Brook. “But, no salesperson will be sufficiently aware of all the benefits unless they are trained on the product,” she emphasises.

Practical demonstrations often speak volumes and Strydom recommends that retailers SHOW their customers how well a thin-looking softshell can repel moisture by pouring a glass of water over a garment — and watch their amazement as the water form beads that do not penetrate the fabric.

An ordinary fan can be used to set up a wind tunnel. Simply ask your customer to extend one hand covered by softshell fabric and the other one bare, and let them experience first hand the protective barrier a softshell can create, he suggests.

These hot spots would work best in a store area dedicated to softshells and other technical garments, adds Geary.

In these areas simple in-store charts from suppliers outlining the key benefits of the garments, could be displayed, suggests Laird. This will also be a great help to retailers selling the products. In-store videos could also be shown here to demonstrate the benefits, adds Brook.

Who are the customers?

Softshells have up to now mainly been sold in outdoor stores — mainly because outdoor brands have been at the forefront of the development — but the uses are limitless. There is hardly a sports or outdoor category where they would NOT be used (well, maybe not IN a pool, but certainly just outside the water).

“Whilst we will design a climbing specific softshell such as our Red Point jacket with full side-seam zippers for ventilation and high chest pockets, we find that it also sells into the general market,” says Little. “In fact, Mike Finch (Runners World editor) was seen on screen wearing his Red Point to protect him against the heavy showers whilst commentating for SABC on the Joburg marathon! Likewise, our women-specific softshells have sold to all sectors of the markets including mountain bikers, walkers, climbers and runners.”

The way in which softshell garments are used would, however, differ from code to code. The use of a softshell supplied by a specific brand will also depends on the area of activity that the brand specialises in.

Salomon, for example, is known as a trail running and adventure racing brand. Their softshell garments are therefore internationally worn mainly by trail runners, says Brook. They will be launching their new technical range to SA consumers for the 2009 season.

Laird believes that watersport enthusiasts would be the most advanced, knowledgeable and understanding of the benefits these garments – but then, Helly Hansen has a strong footprint in watersports.

“Watersport enthusiasts are also, due to their understanding of the benefits, more comfortable paying for the additional features of these garments,” she says. “Warmth, breathability, water resistance levels and wind resistance levels are critical to watersports enthusiasts in enhancing their experience.”

“Active people are doing more and more across all sporting codes so a garment that performs for running, cycling, paddling etc is a fantastic item to have in your active wardrobe,” says Cole. “Many of the sales also depend on the aesthetics of the garment, which may even mean that it’s worn as a fashion rather than a performance item.”

Puma, for example, is a brand that is popular with the higher-income sport fashion consumers and they have found that there has been a major shift in demand for softshell garments from customers who are not really worried about the technical benefits, but want to wear it more as a fashion item, says Geary. But, on the other hand, their softshells are also key items worn by top football teams and runners.

But, whatever the customers needs, the days of the old, traditional thick heavy fleeces are numbered, says Strydom. In future, everybody will be wearing light, compact micro-fibre fleeces under softshell garments — or just a single softshell garment on its own.

There is no garment more comforting on a classic Cape winters day with grey skies, intermittent rain and a cold wind that cuts though to the bone, he says. That is when a softshell offers a practical solution on the golf course, next to the fishing waters, on a hike or just going about your everyday busines.