Trends

Barefoot running – the brand perspective

The new trend is running barefoot, or ideally with shoes that allow the foot to resemble the barefoot gait as closely as possible, sport scientists Dr Ross Tucker wrote in an article published in the October/November 2008 issue of Sports Trader.

According to him, anti-pronation is no longer the key phrase in the performance running industry — the trend has changed towards the lighter neutral and more cushioned shoe, instead of the stability and anti-pronation shoes of former years.

That is because anything between 40%-70% of runners are injured every year, despite claims from footwear brands that anti-pronation shoes will reduce the injury in over-pronators, or that forefoot and rearfoot cushioning reduce impact and the risk of injury.

We asked some of the major running footwear brand representatives if they agreed with Tucker.

Natural front runner

Nike is one of the front runners in regard to natural motion thinking, says David Blake of Nike SA.

When they introduced Nike Free, the main focus was on three things: strengthening the foot complex (kinematic chain), reducing the risk of injury, and increasing the ability for a better performance.

“The idea was very radical to most people, but I believe that the more competitive athlete and coach definitely understood the concept from the beginning. Most coaches do include some form of barefoot training in their athletes’ training schedule. This is, however, very restrictive, as they would have to train on a track, or grassed area free of stones and glass,” says Blake.

Nike Free gives the athlete the benefit of barefoot running, but on a wider variety of surfaces, for example roads.

“Nike then took the findings from Nike Free and added them to the construction of “conventional” footwear; this allows the athlete to run with a more natural gait cycle even though they have a shoe on.

“We do obviously still have shoes with medial posting, but with the way we can now construct footwear, and with the materials used, we can reduce the size of the medial post. This can be seen in the Structure Triax,” says Blake.

Nike also designed women’s specific product based on the Nike Free concept. They do not just “shrink and pink” the shoes, but among other features include reduced crash pads, gender specific lasts, and deeper forefoot flex grooves.

Motion enhancement pioneer

This view is nothing new, agrees Asics’ global research coordinator Simon Bartold, as Asics stopped believing in “pronation control” many years ago. In fact, he maintains, Asics was the courageous pioneer of motion enhancement, and has gone to extraordinary lengths to try to tell the international medical communities that motion enhancement was where it’s at, and motion in the pure sense of the word, is very difficult to control.

Bartold adds that flexibility, responsiveness and lightweight are now the key factors in performance running shoes. Stiffness, pronation control strategies and weight are the enemy of every runner.

“We do not make or promote motion control shoes,” says Bartold. “We have not done that since way back.

“We actively promote the concept of motion enhancement,” he says.

“The Holy Grail really is to try to design athletic footwear that is very light, that is very flexible, to try to make sure that every little subtle movement of the foot is allowed to occur.”

Less is better

Natural or barefoot running is the best and would be ideal, says Philipp Hahm, the global product manager in the running category of Puma. They therefore try to incorporate this in their running footwear ranges.

“We choose a little bit of a different direction for the launch of the new Vectana and Velosis, as we need to address the biggest market segments first. As a credible running brand we need shoes on the wall of the speciality running stores — the Vectana and Velosis are doing the job.

“After we covered our bases with the trainer range, we will have the resources and freedom to work on the special concept shoes. In contrast to the past, this won’t mean that our whole trainer range will go barefoot/super natural/ low profile,” he says.

The L.I.F.T. Racer ultra-lightweight shoe, one of the latest additions to their running-inspired lifestyle shoe range, does, however, fall in this category.

With a low profile, ergonomic fit and light weight (only 173 gm), the L.I.F.T. Racer is a versatile shoe that can be worn anywhere. It is aimed at the runner looking to integrate short distances into their workout, not for long-distance technical running.

It derives its name from a new type of manufacturing called Lite Injected Foam Technology, which ensures that all excess materials are cut off and disposed of, epitomising lightweight running.

The midsole is constructed using a two colour EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) wrap around the entire upper, accentuating the key features: light weight and low profile.

Lightweight features are also found in the upper with a micro suede trim detail combined with an oval mesh for maximum breathability. The breathable mesh is stitched on to complete the upper, using less glue and making the shoe environmentally-friendly.

Benefits foot dynamics

Much of the technical development of footwear over the last two decades has focused on correcting the movement of the foot, rather than on facilitating a foot movement that is much closer to the natural barefoot movement, says Mickey Mallett of Hi-Tec SA.

“Hi-Tec believes that in order to benefit the runner wearing our shoes, we needed to create a shoe with the foot strike closely reflecting that of the barefoot. That led to Hi-Tec scientifically developing the 4:SYS midsole, which helps the foot to function in a more natural way by optimising the material used,” says Mallett.

The 4:Sys technology is the culmination of intensive barefoot pressure pad research, and testing into the dynamics of the foot, he explains. “It delivers more efficiency to the wearer by allowing the foot to move naturally and adding more cushioning and support where it is most needed.

“Through intensive research with Dr Hurrian from the Quintec consultancy in the UK, Hi-Tec assessed and evaluated the high pressure areas of the foot during the running movements. The study has revealed that there are four critical phases to running which are the heel strike, mid-foot stance, forefoot and toe-off.

“Hi-Tec is one of the only companies to offer different cushioning densities arranged in a CIRCULAR format in the heel strike area to mirror the barefoot impact zones!

“Although these movements are normal, the new insight here is the high pressure that is driven through the big toe and the critical roles that plays in balance, stability and forward propulsion. From this research, Hi-Tec developed the 4:SYS concept that keeps in mind the different forces applied by the barefoot while running.”

Smooth and neutral

Brooks’ MoGo technology — considerably extending the long-lasting resiliency and cushioning of the midsole — is used to good effect in their neutral shoes, like the new Glycerin 5.

The two layers of MoGo in the heel and sandwiched in the midfoot, offers a very smooth footstrike. The silver-embedded liner keeps the feet naturally balanced while a touch of support ensures a ride that glides.

Not an ideal world

But, the issues are not so clear cut.

“I can certainly not claim to have any scientific experience,” says Gary van Rooyen, GM of New Balance SA, “but having been in the footwear industry for the past twenty years and endured fifty marathons, two Ironman’s, five ultra’s and many, many multi-sport events, I have experienced the pain of ITB (pain and inflammation on the outside of the knee), the loss of toe-nails, shin-splints, torn calf muscles and every other bouquet of running injury available on the market (caused by all the top brands in the local market).”

“I have seen and also experienced the bio-mechanical labs at SSISA, as well as the advanced Bio lab in Boston, and I totally agree with their principles of body and muscle alignment and the power of the brain to make the adjustments required. In a perfect world of sand, rock and off-road paths we would all have been a lot better off without shoes.

“However, the fact that we have been molly-coddled and ‘clothed’ in the incorrect footwear since the moment our mothers were able to fit shoes on our feet, has left us with inherent problems that require bio-mechanical assistance.

“Neutral shoes may be good for some, but we could never put a flat-footed, over-pronator into a neutral shoe without some repercussions. Ironically, we see more injuries from runners changing from their old ‘broken down’ shoes into a new pair of ‘stiffish’ ones, be they neutral or supportive, due to the fact that their bodies have adjusted to the breakdown of the old pair and then the runner heads off in his new pair as though nothing has changed. The body inevitably goes into shock and an injury manifests itself in some place in the body - mostly in the knee, ITB, calf or back.

“The crazy thing is that we spend eight working hours in the ‘incorrect’ shoes and then blame the issue on our running shoes after a 30 minute jog at the end of the day.”

New Balance has developed a Total Fit™ technology, specifically designed to fit around the foot and to adapt to the way you run. It is based on the philosophy that when it comes to fit, size isn’t everything. Fit is seen as an entire system of technologies – not just one. They have identified 88 points on the foot where the correct fit is important - not just length and width, but the heel, toe box, outer-sole, mid sole, arches… the whole foot.

They say their shoes go through over 240 000 miles of testing and that they partnered with the most prestigious engineering universities to develop enhanced biomechanical measurement tools.

Examples of two styles with this Total Fit™ technology are the 769 and the 1063. The 769 is a running shoe that offers a strong blend of cushioning and mild to moderate anti-pronation support. The Acteva Lite midsole features Abzorb technology for excellent levels of cushioning, while the TS2 medial post, Stability Web and NLOCK give the runner plenty of support and stability.

The 1063 is a top-of-the-range cushioned shoe featuring shock-absorbing Abzorb technology in the midsole, sockliner, heel and forefoot. A Stability Web in the midfoot reduces weight and maintains torsional integrity. Its supreme fit is due to NLock and Phantom Liner, with the additional benefit of environmentally-friendly breathable Cocona material.

Absorbing marathon shock

A misconception about anti-pronation shoes developed as a result of the significant hype about the stresses of over-pronation a few years ago, adds Deane Nothard of Reebok SA. With pronation the buzz word in running circles, anti-pronation shoes became increasingly popular, even with mild pronators. This led to many people wearing anti-pronation shoes when it was probably unnecessary.

“However, we still believe there is a strong case for severe pronators to use a stability shoe to reduce the risk of injury, and to help ease the stressors from an awkward movement.

Not all stability shoes need to be heavy and expensive though — new technologies have allowed for more lightweight stability shoes that still provide a medial post for severe over-pronators, or a more solid transition bridge to assist with stability,” says Nothard.

Reebok still believes that cushioning and shock absorption are the keys to long-distance running shoes. On a shorter run, they may not be as critical, but when running ultra-marathons, that repetitive pounding is naturally going to take its toll, particularly because (as the article alludes) we come from a society that is used to protecting our feet with shoes in our daily lives.

It is for this reason that Reebok’s premier range focuses on its cushioning and shock absorption properties, particularly through the midsole.

“Where we do agree with the article is that the foot wants to retain some of its natural feel and movements. Reebok’s KFS technology incorporates expansion joints that allow for more natural movement, and most especially for the expansion of the foot as it swells over long distances.

“This in turn keeps the blood flowing properly and the foot comfortable. Our SmoothFit technology is another innovation in this direction where the lightweight, seamless upper, reduces friction to provide a more comfortable, natural feel,” adds Nothard.

Don’t over-simplify

There is a movement towards the phrase more natural in the performance shoe market, says Jerome Goslett, GM of Omni-sport, distributor of Saucony. Where the anti-pronation qualities of footwear were emphasised a few years ago, the tendency in 2009 is to move to something more stable and neutral, without excessive posts in the mid-sole to stop pronation. There is also a tendency away from the heavy footwear that over-emphasize stability.

But, he warns against what he describes as an over-simplification in the article by Tucker.“Can you imagine young people who eat excessively becomes overweight and develops injuries to their legs, ankles and knees at a young age. They might become knock-kneed or bow legged because they are so overweight, later he or she loses weight and starts running. The barefoot or normal neutral shoe won’t necessarily cater for these problems.”

Although there is a trend to go natural, there has to be complications when size and weight etc. come into play. “There are many variables. At the Comrades marathon, you see runners with a variety of shapes and sizes. It is one thing to state that the American Indians running in moccasins suffered no injuries, but they were not running on tar, were they, also how do we know they suffered no injuries ” says Goslett.

“One thing is for sure, and that is that technical running stores are becoming more sophisticated in analysing needs. The tendency is to analyse needs and to look at neutral footwear first and then make judgements based upon the weight and size etc. of the person,” he adds.