Trends

Fashion with Function

August / September 2008

Dior dresses men in tracksuits and high-top sneakers. Reebok launches a Scarlett Johansson RBK range in lollipop colours and luxury soft fabrics. The fashion show at the OutDoor Show in Friedrichshafen could simply be transported to the Milan Fashion Week.

Boat shoes, high-topped sneakers and outdoor sandals are launched in Milan and Paris, high heels worn on the ramp in Friedrichshafen.

SAs fashion-savvy teens vote adidas, Billabong and Nike as the Coolest brands and it will be a safe bet that few have ever set foot on a soccer field, surfboard or running track.

The cross-over continues with outdoor brand Salomon launching a road running shoe. Athletic brand New Balance being accepted as part of the outdoor fraternity in Friedrichshafen.

But, is it perhaps a case of looks deceiving?

Beneath the fashion styling, there is still a good deal of functionality — as always in the outdoor and athletic brands, but some top end fashion designers follow suit.

The top outdoor brands are still mindful that their clothing is worn in harsh conditions by people doing all kinds of strenuous things — breathability, moisture management, wind protection, articulated sleeves and pants and all the other design features aimed at an active lifestyle is therefore combined with fashion styling.

The same goes for athletic heritage brands: they can not lose sight that their reputations have been built on quality and performance features that give an athlete a competitive edge.

Not stand out in a crowd

With one big difference: garments should no longer LOOK as if they are only meant to be worn on Kilimanjaro or in the gym. They can have all the functional features ever dreamt of, but they should look good enough to be worn to the mall and market.

Therefore, a fast-drying, functional shirt will now come in brightly coloured checks; and a windproof breathable jacket in subdued blues or browns that blend in with the cinema crowds.

Shoes draw the attention to the feet with funky designs and bright colours — but have added functional features like soft shell uppers that offer a smooth-surfaced and seamless look while keeping feet dry and breathing. Soft shell fabrics add the possibility of all the colours of the rainbow and are lighter than leather or Cordura.

Like the fashion industry rely on the new design and colour books from Promostyl, the outdoor brands keep up with fashion trends through the designer association IDEAS Active Sports Design Network (32 international freelance design studios specialising in outdoor designs).

Trend books

They have designed around two themes for Summer 2009: sliding doors, reflecting the traditional Japanese sliding doors, giving glimpses of eye-catching features in shining yellow, pastel, olive, pink, bright blue; as well as inside out, a blend of everyday city life and the outdoors in shades of green, earthy colours, pink and sky blues.

Colour is used to showcase technology and the fabric used is of prime importance: water resistance, UV protection, mosquito repellance and environment friendly (e.g. cocona) fabrics will become increasingly important.

Different shades of a colour emphasizing functional detail, ultrasound welding of seams and silicone prints will be focus points in outdoor fashions next year.

Smart textiles integrating mobiles, monitors and music functions as in the Nike+ footwear with a built-in monitor that tells you how well you’re running, is going to become more prominent, they predict.

In travelwear, jackets will be longer, slimmer fitting and fast-drying. Sporty colours will be combined with stripes in most collections. The city look for ladies will feature checks and floral prints in a feminine cut — ergonomical seams and insets will be highlighted in different colour shades.

Retail perceptions

With all this cross-over from sport to outdoor to fashion, the question arises: does it matter from which brand a retailer sources stock. If all facets look the same, should a fashion store not stock up on Reebok, a sport store on Salomon, and an outdoor store on New Balance?

We asked brands to give their opinions on the following:

“Do you think that this blending of styles would eventually result in outdoor brands selling into sport and fashion stores, sport brands being sold in outdoor and fashion stores and fashion brands sold in sport and outdoor stores – if so, what will the impact be for your brand(s)? What do you think will this do for your brand’s identity as well as the identity of the retail stores?”

Barbara Cole for New Balance South Africa

I think that this is already noticeable within retail and has been prevalent for some time. As far as New Balance goes though, our focus is technical sports apparel with a very strong running heritage. Any “fashion” apparel we do is generally more after-sport wear, which serves to enhance our range of apparel, rather than dominate it.

We want to stay true to our roots and focus on our strengths, while moving forward with new technical performance features and fabrics.

For us the cross-over would come in the form of people wearing our technical running apparel to do other activities in, for example going to the gym, cycling, paddling or walking, or any sport for that matter.

We pride ourselves in our apparel being technically sound and performance driven, this will not change. Whether or not someone likes the styling enough to wear it casually or as a fashion item, depends very much on the styling and fabric itself as well as the customers personal preference.

If anything, I think this could serve to strengthen our brand’s position and identity as an authentic technical sports brand with a deep heritage in running, which we will remain focused on.

As far as retail goes, it is a challenge for the stores to remain focused on where they want to be positioned in the market, and whether or not they want to be seen as an authentic sports outlet or more of a fashion outlet.

 

Deane Nothard for Reebok SA

There is a definite blurring of the lines in some of the colours and designs coming through across the genres. Sport is definitely becoming more fashionable, and a lot of fashion is becoming quite sporty, but the consumer is still knowledgeable enough to make the distinction between a genuine lifestyle versus sports product.

It’s also in the retailers interest not to confuse their identity. A serious runner or gym enthusiast looking for a good quality sports product will still look to his sports retailers. The sports’ consumer will be looking for the key technologies in the apparel and footwear that best satisfy their needs, with styling a secondary consideration. Many of the sports products will double up as an outdoor/lifestyle option, but the primary purchase will still be quite specific.

Reebok as a brand has a sports range and a lifestyle range that are kept very separate. Although some of the styling may cross over to an extent, the technologies and materials separate the range quite clearly. It also adds to the brand’s and the retailer’s credibility to keep the distinction clear. For our sportswear with Play Dry lining and flex panels we want to be seen in a core sports retailer to add credibility to the brand. Similarly with our lifestyle ranges we want to be in the key fashion stores for the same reason.

So, as much as the styling and colours will overlap, there are definite functional and positioning considerations that should ensure the majority of ranges are found in the respective retailers.

 

Sgwili Gumede for Ukusa Brandhouse

I think it has happened already. I would argue that anyone who believes that this is still imminent needs to revisit the retail lanscape, looking at what the leading brands have done and also have some conversations with the consumer.

The lines between fashion, outdoor and sports brands are blurred and have been for a while now. The brands that perhaps would have been classified as sport in the 90’s are now in also seen to be fashion-like, and vice versa. The same is true for outdoor.

The impact on our brand, Champion, and other leading brands, is that it has had to adapt and be dynamic. Fact is, any brand that has not learnt to respond to its consumers’ ever-changing needs and dynamic states of mind will not survive.

I do not believe it will lead to an identity change, our consumers have always expected us to meet their sport, fashion and outdoor needs, within reason. It’s an exciting challenge!